Key Questions to Ask When Ordering Lip Products

In a previous post I wrote about How To Create Your Own Hair or Skin Care Line. I talk about getting very clear on what you want and asking yourself questions to help you to have focus and clarity.

One of the questions is, Are you making the product or a private manufacturer? Over the years, I have heard several horror stories of clients that have gone with private manufacturers and didn’t read the fine print of the contract. The relationship with the manufacturer went bad and my clients did not own their formula. My clients wanted to move their business to another manufacturer but they would have to start over as they did not own the formula for their product/s. It would cost them a lot of money. They said they wish they would have consulted with me first or taken one of my Pro Courses to have knowledge on formulating and developing products and before signing the contract. They would have saved money in the long run. I also have students that have come back and told me they learned so much from taking the pro course and they decided to go with a private manufacturer and knew exactly what to ask for developing the product and the contracted terms.

There are Private Label Manufacturers and Contract Manufacturers. Some do both functions and include  custom formulating services.

Private Label Manufacturers
Private label manufacturers have stock formulas and you choose from their stock bases for the cosmetic product and scent and the container. The stock bases can usually be slightly modified. They fill the container, label it with your custom label and ship the product.
Pros: This is the fastest way for product development and to bring your product to market. There are no product development costs. There are low minimums on your product and you can see how your product does on the market without putting a lot of money into it.
Cons: You have no control over the ownership of your product. If the manufacturer decides to discontinue a stock base you are using, you have to use another base of theirs and change your label with the listing of ingredients, plus it will be a different formulation that you may not like as much. The manufacturer may go out of business or you may not like their business practices but you are unable to take your business elsewhere since they own the formula. They will not give you the formula. All of these problems have happened to clients of mine that came to me very frustrated.

Contract Manufacturer
Contract manufacturers manufacture from a formula you own, fill and ship your product. You own the formula. You can contract a cosmetic formulator to create the formula, create the formula yourself or go through the manufacturer if they offer the service. Some manufacturers have a cosmetic formulator on staff and they work with you to customize a formulation for you and then at this same facility it is manufactured, filled and shipped to you.
Pros: You own the formula. If you are not happy with the manufacturer you can go to another manufacturer with your formula.
Cons: It is more expensive to have a custom formula developed  and it takes more time for product development and longer to market. High minimums are usually required.

If you are thinking about a private label or contract manufacturer here are some questions to assist you to have a clear collaborative relationship with the manufacturer and hopefully save you from heartache and loss of finances.

Questions To Ask Cosmetic Manufacturing Labs
You should know if they are a private label or contract manufacturer or both and then ask the questions below that relate to them.

1. How long have they been in business?
2. Are they a cGMP (current Good Manufacturing Practices) facility? FDA compliant?
Water used? Is it purified to USP standards?
3. Lab Testing-What types of lab testing do they perform?: Do they do CTFA Challenge Testing? Do they do stability testing? or Does the formula need to already passed testing at a lab before coming to them? What tests do they recommend? Do they do microbial testing of every completed batch?
4. Can they produce ___________ (your product ex: lotion)?
5. Do they work with the ingredients in your formula? Can they handle your formula procedures?
6. What other cosmetic products can they manufacture?
7. What are their minimums?
8. What are their maximums for production? (If the product does very well, can they meet the demand?)
9. Pilot Run and Scaling: How do they do this?
10. How much for samples?
11. How many times will they allow you to try the product from the pilot run and tweak it before they charge more?
12. What is the turn around time from when you place your order?
13. What are the R&D (research & development) costs?
14. Raw ingredients: Ingredient Sourcing- how does this work? can they help you with this, do they have some raw ingredients they buy in bulk you can use?
15. What are their mixing capabilities?
16. What Equipment Do they have/use? Stainless Steel? Propeller agitation?
17. Filling: Equipment Used in Filling?: What type of filling system do they have? Does it work with the containers you will be using? Can they do heat fill tubes? How many containers can be filled in 24 hours?
18. Packaging: Do they do Induction Sealing? Shrink Wrap? Labeling?
19. Batching and Filling
Who will be making the product? Is the person going to be on site when the product is being made? Do they do any documentation and inspection of the product while being made?
Can you visit the facility? (most will say no)
20. Timely Delivery of finished products: Cost?
21. Payment Terms?
22. What is their Refund Policy?
23. Policy for damaged goods on arrival?
24. Cost for additional Runs?
25. Do they have a referral from another customer? (contact this customer and ask their experience)
You want to stay in complete ownership of your formula: Owning your formula: If they make any adjustments to the formula or production procedure you want to make it clear that you still own the formula, not them. Make sure to read the contract and that it states this.

Get everything in writing!

 Joan Morais is a natural cosmetic formulator, instructor, author and the owner of Joan Morais Naturals. Joan assists product makers on how to make high quality, stable and effective natural body, hair and skin care products for personal use and a product making business.

5 Things to Consider When Choosing Lipstick

With so many different options, choosing the right lipstick can be a bit of a daunting task, especially if you’re looking to minimize breakouts, dryness, chapping and other unwanted effects. If you’re having trouble answering the all too common question, “Which lipstick is right for me?” read up on these five things to consider when choosing a new product.

1. What Lipstick Color Is Right for You?

Getting your lipstick color just right for your skin tone and personal preferences can be a tall order. The first step is to figure out whether your skin undertones are warm, cool, or neutral. One trick you can try is to look at the veins on the underside of your arms or wrists. If they appear to be blue, you probably have cool undertones. If they look green, you have warm undertones. If you can’t tell whether they’re blue or green, you have a neutral skin tone.

As a general rule of thumb, bluish or purplish reds typically look best against cooler skin tones, whereas orangey or true reds are better suited for warmer skin tones. If you have a neutral skin tone, you can choose either one.

2. Does Your Lipstick Contain Acne-Causing Ingredients?

Some lipsticks contain acne-causing ingredients such as isopropyl myristate, synthetic dyes, and silicones. Try to avoid choosing lipsticks and other cosmetic products that contain these ingredients, especially if your skin tends to break out easily. Remember that acne occurs in an eight-week cycle, so the makeup you wear today could potentially affect your skin for weeks down the road.

3. Does It Include Sunscreen?

Many people don’t realize that they can protect their lips from the sun’s UV rays while wearing their favorite lipstick. The key is to choose a product that contains SPF. Ideally, you want to look for a lipstick that uses zinc oxide as a physical sunscreen, rather than chemical ingredients like oxybenzone or avobenzone. This is because you tend to eat about 70% of the products that you put on your lips, so it’s better to stick with natural ingredients whenever possible. Some chemical sunscreens can also lead to breakouts for some people.

On its own, zinc can turn your lips and skin white, but when used in a lipstick or tinted lip balm, it can look great while delivering excellent sun protection! Some of my favorite brands of tinted lip balm with SPF are Coola and Fresh, both of which use mineral sunscreens instead of chemical ingredients. If you’re going to be out in the sun all day, you should also avoid shiny lip glosses, as these can actually attract UV rays directly to your lips. Since your lips don’t have built-in defenses against sun damage like the skin on other areas of your face and body does, it is especially important to do everything you can do protect your lips from sun exposure.

4. Does It Contain Lip Plumping Ingredients?

While it might seem like a good idea to combine a topical lip plumper with your lipstick, bear in mind that many lip plumping ingredients can cause allergic reactions or signs of irritation. In fact, these types of ingredients work by causing your lips to become inflamed, which gives them a temporary flush of color and a fuller, more voluminous appearance. The two most common ingredients used for this purpose are cinnamon oil or capsaicin, which can cause excessive swelling, dryness, and irritation. Look for these ingredients in your lipstick or balm before use.

Some other common makeup ingredients that can cause allergic reactions or sensitivity include red and yellow dyes, lanolin, methylchloroisothiazolinone, and fragrance. If you know your skin is easily irritated or if you have had allergic reactions to cosmetic ingredients in the past, make sure you check the labels before trying new products, including your lipstick.

5. Do You Want a Vegan Lipstick?

Not all lipsticks or makeup products are vegan. Some red dyes contain carmine or cochineal, which are made from ground up beetles. Many people are allergic to these dyes, and some red and yellow dyes can also cause acne. If you’re concerned about using only plant-based lipsticks or if you have an allergy to carmine or carminic acid, you might have to do a little digging to find the right red or pink lipstick for you.

In Summary

Keeping these five tips in mind when selecting a new lipstick can help to make the process much smoother and simpler. Be on the lookout for many of the same potentially irritating or acne-causing ingredients mentioned here in other types of cosmetic products as well to help keep your skin and lips smooth, soft, and healthy-looking.

In the comments: What are your favorite lipstick brands that use natural ingredients?

Meta title: 5 Things to Consider When Choosing Lipstick

Desc: Have questions about how to choose a lipstick? Miami board-certified dermatologist Dr. Leslie Baumann shares five important factors to consider.

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